There are a few reasons why people like to decorate their house with farmhouse-style décor. It is aesthetically pleasing for the eyes and brings a warm and cozy feeling to your house.
If you want to get your tools to bring to your house a new look with farmhouse style décor, the easiest and most cost-saving way is to build a farmhouse table.
The table is probably where many great family memories occurred. And around the dinner table, many activities occurred as well. It could be preparing food, chatting while cooking, and more.
Another reason is that house furniture is generally very expensive. But, by building the table yourself, you save a lot of money. Even with a tight budget, you can still build and get yourself a nice table for a family gathering.
With that being said, let’s take a look below at some farmhouse kitchen tables that you can build yourself, as well as the steps you need to perform to turn the table into reality.
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You can easily build this table using readily available wood at the home store. When picking wood for the table, you should opt for kiln-dried heat-treated wood.
The parts include 1 removable top made from 2x10s and the base which consists of legs made from 4x4s and ledgers made from 2x4s held together using pocket screws and glue.
The benches are built using the same principle as the table.
Cut the 2x10s to the desired length. You can start by cutting roughly near the desired length, glue the boards together, then cut down the second time to the desired length.
For a circular saw, you can use a speed square for a straight cut.
Join the board together so that they line up with a seamless edge. You should give yourself a flat straight edge to work. You can use either a table saw or a hand plane to flat out the edge afterward and do this on both sides.
Then, align and make biscuit grooves to use the biscuit jointers.
Put glue on the biscuits and the board edge, join 2 boards together and use a soft mallet to tap the board together. Then, hold the board together using clamps, pipe clamp is recommended for the strong force.
When gluing the third board and onward, use cauls to keep the board from misaligned.
Once you have done gluing the boards, use a circular saw to cut a straight line along the short edges of the boards to get the final length.
Then, glue the breadboards to both sides that were cut down, then hold them in place with pipe clamps. Use pocket hole screws to attach the ends
Use 4x4s with pocket hole screws and glue each corner of the base to the legs. Then add spreader bars on each end leg for sturdiness using the 2x4s and attach them together with glue and a pocket hole screw.
Add 4 45 degree braces on each corner to further increase sturdiness, and use glue and pocket screw to attach the braces.
Lastly, add a footer brace to span the length of the table. Remember to keep everything square and at an equal distance from each other.
This is to further platen the table’s surface, use the planer and belt sander or orbital sander to smoothen the unevenness
Use dark walnut Danish oil and apply 3 to 4 coats. Then apply oil-based poly and sand with 220 grit sanding between coats
The bench can be built similar to the table.
Now just install the tabletop to the base and you are good to go. The whole build takes about 20 hours and the material cost is roughly $135.
This build involves cutting a notch into the 4x4s for extra sturdiness.
You will need 4 8-feet 2x4s, 1 10-feet 4×4, 4 6-feet 2x8s, 1 8-feet 2×8, and 1 6-feet 2×10.
Cut 4 4x4s to 29″ for the legs.
Use a 12″ or 10″ miter saw, cut one side, flip the board, and cut the bottom size, then sand to smoothen the cuts. You can use cork or felt pads to protect the floor from scratches. Then, notch out the stretcher joint.
You should practice this step on a scrap or ask your home store to cut the boards for you. The final notch should be 4″ long and 1 1/2″ deep
Cut 2 2x4s to 34″ to make the stretcher supports.
Use the same technique as step 1 to cut and notch out the stretchers at the middle of the board. The final size is also 4″ long and 1 1/2″ deep.
Next, attach the stretcher to the legs, then drill and use 3″ screws to attach both ends of the stretcher.
Cut 2 2x4s to 27″ to make the short apron.
Add the top aprons with 1 1/2″ pocket hole and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. Drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes on the aprons’ insides for attaching the tabletop later. Each end apron should have 3 drilled holes.
Cut 2 2x4s to 67″ to be the long aprons
Attach the 2 long aprons and 2 ends together to form the table frame.
Then use 1 1/2″ pocket holes on the aprons’ insides for attaching the tabletop. There should be 5 holes per long apron.
Cut 1 2×4 to 74″ to make the stretcher, then attach it to the stretcher supports. Use pocket holes underneath on both sides to hold it in place.
Cut 4 2×8 to 70 1/2″x70 1/4″ and 1 2×10 to 70 1/2″x9 1/4″ to make the tabletop planks.
Drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes along one edge, each hole should be 8 to 12″ apart from the other.
Then, start from the 70 1/2″x9 0 1/4″ as the center plank, then attach 2 adjacent boards together using 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue.
Measure and cut the breadboards to fit the width of the table, then drill the pocket holes and attach the breadboards to the tabletop using pocket hole screws and glue.
Next, measure and drill 1 1/2″ pocket hole and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws under both tabletops for attaching the tabletop to the base. There should be 5 pocket holes as well.
Now all you have to do is attach the base to the tabletop through the previously drilled pocket holes with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.
Fill any hole with wood filler. If needed, you should apply additional wood flier coats, then wait for everything to dry.
Once it is ready, use the 120-grit sandpaper to sand the table in the direction of the wood, then vacuum wood residue and clean up the table using clothes.
This farmhouse kitchen table should fit in small kitchens. You will be able to fit 2 chairs on each long side of the table and 1 chair on each short side. The overall dimension of the table is 60″x30″x29″.
You will need 2 12’ 2x4s, 2 10’ 2x4s, 2 10’ 2x8s, 1 8’2×8, for the woods.
Here is how to cut the woods:
Here are the steps:
Aligning the 4 top boards together. While doing this, try to minimize the gaps between them. Try to keep them at the same level while aligning too.
Then, attach the top boards together using pocket screws and glue, then use clamps and straight wood to hold them together and evenly.
Next, use a circular saw to cut on both sides of the tabletops to get the desired 45 1/2″ length.
Align the breadboards to the tabletop to minimize the gap and keep them evenly leveled.
Then, attach the breadboards to the tabletop using pocket screws and glue, then use clamps and straight wood to hold them together and evenly.
Align the aprons so that the ends of the long aprons are in contact with the sides of the short apron at the ends.
Then, attach the aprons together using pocket screws and glue, each joint should have 2 pocket screws, then use clamps to hold them together and evenly.
Align the apron supports properly and evenly inside the apron system.
Then, attach the 2 apron supports to the long aprons using pocket screws and glue, each joint should have 2 pocket screws, then use clamps to hold them together and evenly.
Use the circular saw to cut and notch out the legs at the corner for attaching to the aprons and the tabletop. Then drill 4 countersunk 2 1/2″ deck screws at each leg.
The notches’ size should be 3 1/2″x1x3/4″ (3 1/2″ match the height of the 2x4s of the aprons, 1×3/4″ is half of the final width of the table).
Measure to make sure you get the right angle, then use 1 countersunk screw into the long apron and 2 into the short ones.
Use the countersunk screws and attach the tabletop to the base.
Then apply some polyurethane layers for finishing touches.
Read more: 39 Farmhouse Interior Design Ideas
If you have an even lower budget to build the previous DIY project, this will be ideal for you. You can use teal fabric chairs or some rustic bench to style the table.
You will need 1 10-feet 4×4, 3 10-feet 1x4s, 2 8-feet 1x10s, 1 10-feet 1×10, and 2 8-feet 2x3s for the wood.
Cut the wood to these sizes using the miter saw:
Pound the wood using the hammer to give it the distressed look, then sand them down.
Take the 1x4s and arrange them so that 4 37-inch pieces are perpendicular and between the 2 70-inch pieces. The 37-inch pieces need to be 33 1/2″ away from each other. Then nail and glue them together.
Place the 33-inch 2x3s on top of the frame so that they are 6″ away from where the middle boards were placed, then nail them into place.
Put 1 37-inch 1×10 at one end of the apron frame, then glue it down and secure it down with nails.
Step 6: The tabletop’s middle
Grab the 53 1/2-inch 1×10 and lay it flat at one side, use a pencil to guide where to put the glue, glue it down, then nail the board in place.
Next, put the rest of the 53 1/2-inch 1x10s in place and attach them using glue and nails.
Now finish with another 37-inch 1×10
Flip the table over, take all the 29 0 1/4-inch pieces, and place them at each corner of the apron frame.
Screw them into the frame using 4 screws per leg.
Now take the remaining wood, the 2x3s and arrange them to form a giant capital letter “I” since it is elongated.
Then screw them into place. Place the giant I at the bottom of the table and hold it in place using a 5″ screw at each leg.
Read more: 25 Rustic Farmhouse Living Room Décor Ideas
This is one of the coolest builds in this list since it integrates ice chests in the middle of the board. With this table, you can use the patio area as a dining area for summer parties and BBQs.
You will need for the wood:
Also, the design lets you place a patio at the center of the table with a hole. And since this table is going to be used outside, you should apply some quality sealer to it. You can get the full woodworking plan here.
With just a few tools and lots of patience, you can expect the budget to be somewhere around $150.
Here are some tips to build this table:
1. Cut as you go
This approach has the benefit of letting you make small adjustments as you work through your build to make sure that everything fits together nicely and the table is more durable.
2. First cuts
When there is cutting involved, you should always cut a half-inch off 1 end of the board. This allows a clean and straight end to measure.
You should sand individual pieces of wood before assembling the table. Try to smooth out all the rough edges, corners, and sides. 120 grit sandpapers should be enough for the job, but you can go up 80 grit sandpaper with rough spots.
Just like sanding, staining is much easier when done in portions than when the table is finished. It also makes sure the stain protects and makes your wood more waterproof so that it is more durable against the weather.
How to make table legs
This is one of the highlights in the woodworking plan which could save you money on table legs. The idea is to create the legs, then attach them to the table using diagonal supports and bolts.
The system enables you to remove the legs in case you want to store the table somewhere or transport it.
First, create a flat surface using a table saw blade angled at 45 degrees. The table fence should be at 2.74″.
Next, measure and mark the place for the wood anchors, then use a 7/16″ drill bit and drill a 1 1/2″ deep hole. Insert the wood anchors, then tighten them using a 3/8 Allen wrench.
Next, to attach the legs, build 4 diagonal supports attaching to the skirting with 45-degree angles at each end using 2x4s.
Finally, at the center of the diagonal pieces, mark and drill holes at the same location as the legs, then use bolts and screws to attach the legs.
This is another great option for building an outdoor patio table. Compared to the previous build, this one adds beer wine cooler supports below each cooler, so it would require slightly more wood.
You will need to cut the woods to these sizes:
Here are the steps:
Sand all of the wood, then put pocket holes in both ends of the top center boards.
Arrange all the top boards with pocket holes facing up and put the planter boxes upside down to make sure you have enough spaces to lift the cooler out once the table is completed.
Next, apply glue to the top center boards and use 2 1/2″ screws through the pocket holes to attach the top center boards to the middle boards. You need to hold the boards down while gluing and screwing.
Then, drill 6 pocket holes on each longboard (2 spots per junction where the pocket holes will be made). Attach the long boards to the tabletop using glue and 2 1/2″ screws.
First, screw together the sides of the box using 1 0 1/4″ screws and glue them in place. Then take the supports and attach them space-evenly at the bottom of the box.
Attach two of the cross beam boards to the box assemblies using screw and glue. Remember to clamp them in place.
Next, lay out the planter box assemblies and table skirt boards on the upside-down tabletop and screw and glue them in place.
Line up the legs and the outside of the long skirts, then attach them using 4 screws for each leg, then glue and clamp them together.
First, apply the wood conditioner, followed by the stain. The stain should be applied as thick as possible. Then, apply the Seafin teak oil at least 7 coats, and let each coat dry for about 12 hours.
While other builds may take days to complete, you can spend only a couple of hours to get the result. It is a simple and beautiful table with a large bottom storage shelf.
You will need to cut the woods to these sizes:
Here are the steps:
Attach the legs to 2 2×6 @ 18″ using 2 screws at each joint, and glue them in place. Repeat and build the second leg system.
Align the 2 leg systems, then attach them together using screws and glue, there should be 2 screws per joint.
Place the first X piece in one leg system, then use screws and glue to attach it temporarily.
Set the second X piece alongside the first one and mark where the 2 pieces cross, then cut it along the marked lines.
Now put the 2 cut pieces inside the leg systems and attach them from top to bottom.
Take 1 2×6 @ 18″, place it at the center of the table, then attach it with screws and glue. There should be 2 screws per joint.
Lay out the 2×6 boards on a flat and level surface.
Apply glue to the top of the table frame and place and align the table frame upside down on the tabletop, then screw the base to the tabletop boards’ underside.
Place the middle bottom shelf board centered on the coffee table bottom shelf, then screw it in place, each joint has 2 screws.
Then place the rest of the boards inside the frame and attach them just like with the center board. Each board should be slightly less than 1″ apart.
Now all you have to do is fill the holes if you desire, sand the entire table with 120 grit sandpapers, then paint the table with prime, then paint.
This is a rather intricate project with an extender at the side of the table if you want to change its size. But with this instruction, you can build this beautiful table easily.
For the wood, you will need 7 2x6s, 5 2x4s, 4 2x3s, 2 4x4s, and 2 2x2s.
Glue 2 of the 2”x6”x8” boards together, then use a clamp to hold everything in place, then drill 4 holes on one board and 4 on the other board for the screw. Now use 8 1 1/2″ screws to hold the wood together more firmly.
Once the first 2 boards have been set, place the third board next to them and repeat the process of gluing, clamping, drilling, and screwing until you end up with 7 boards.
Once the glue was dry, take a 6’ level and use it as a straight edge guide, and cut about 1 inch from the edge across all the boards to get rid of bad wood on both ends.
Now cut the tabletop so that the final length is 53″, the width should be 42″ by this point.
Start by cutting the 4x4s to a length of 28×3/4”. The table’s base is going to be 37”x62”. Cut a 2×3 and a 2×4 to 30 1/2 and repeat for the other end, cut a 2×3 and a 2×4 to 56”. Then drill into the ends of the 2×3 and 2×4.
Next, screw in the 2×3 first to the 4×4 legs with 2” screws, glue the 2×4 to the 2×3 and screw it into the 4×4 legs with 2” screws, then do this for the other end as well.
Screw the 56” pieces in the legs to create the frame.
Now cut 2 more 2×3 boards to be 56” in length and screw them into the 2×4 pieces to create the sidewall for the sliders.
Next, cut a channel in the wood for my sliders and build the internal frame to be the other sidewall for the sliders, then take the 2×4″ pieces to be the underside for the sliders.
Lastly, glue and screw the 8′ 1×2 pieces together and cut them to 30”, then measure and screw those pieces into the end pieces of the table.
Now use stainable wood putty to fill in any cavity and sand the seen pieces. For the tabletop, apply the polycrylic, wait for it to dry, and lightly sand it (do this 4 times).
Once everything is dry, put the tabletop on the base and align them together, then screw both in place. Use the L-shaped brackets under the table for more sturdiness.
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The tables are great, but let’s take a look at the bench that you are going to sit on. With the right treatment, you can end up with other aesthetic pieces of furniture to make your house more pleasing to see.
Here is how the wood will be cut:
Here are the steps:
Notch out the legs for the support board. The notches’ size should be the same size as the support (2×4). Then use the 3″ wood screws to attach the support to two legs and add a short apron between 2 legs.
Now you should have 2 leg systems. Use 2″ screws to attach the long aprons to the legs to finish the frame.
Attach the 2 long boards together with pocket holes and 2″ screws. Then use the 2″ screws to attach the top short ends to the long boards.
Now just drill some pocket holes along the edges every 8 to 10″ and attach the bench to the base.
Next, sand all surfaces of the bench, apply the stain, then coat it with polyurethane layers.
Wood cracking is common since the wood can stretch and shrink over time, causing pressure to the wood itself and leading to cracking. This tabletop build aims to prevent those cracks.
The principle of the build is to create spaces for the woods to stretch, therefore preventing the wood from cracking.
Here are the steps to build this tabletop:
Cut 2 pieces of wood for the sides. Cut 4 pieces of wood for the middle of the table top.
Start by attaching the 4 middle boards first using glue, pocket hole screws, and holding them together with clamps. Then, do the same for the outer 2 boards.
Cut 8 pieces of wood for the breadboard supports. Drill a hole to attach the breadboard to the support and drill countersink holes to attach the table top to the support.
Align the supports on the table top and attach using wood screws, then use clamps to hold them together.
Cut 4 pieces of wood for the breadboards. Remove an area of 2 pieces for the breadboard support using a jigsaw.
Attach the two parts of the breadboard using glue, then clamp and wood screw. Sand the edges to match the edges of the 2×6s when the glue is dry.
Attach the breadboard to the supports using wood screws and fender washers, then add a small cleat on each end of the breadboard to support them.
The location of this cleat may need to be adjusted depending on how your legs/base of your table attach to the table top.
This table has a rather unique design with 2 diagonal wood pieces and 1 straight one as the base for the table.
For the wood, you need:
And you need to cut them to these sizes:
Here are the steps:
Lay the 1×12s on a flat surface and connect 3 of them using pocket hole screws and glue them together
Connect three 73” 1x12s with several pocket screws (adding wood glue at the joints. Then drill additional pocket screws along the edges of the tabletop to connect to the 4×4 border lumber.
Cut 2 4×4s to the same width as the 1×12s. The size should be about 34 1/2”. Cut 3 1×3 cross pieces to the same width.
Connect the corners of the 80″ 4x4s into 2 4x4s you just cut using 2 lag screws. Then use glue and 1 0 1/4” screws to secure the three 1×3 cross pieces and the underside of the 1×12 boards together.
Remember to leave space on the outer edges of your tabletop for connecting the legs later.
Use four 2 1/2” wood screws to connect the 30″ 2×6 top and bottom pieces and the 21 1/4” 4×4 upright support.
Attach the 13″ 4×4 angled pieces to the top and bottom 2x6s and the upright supports using 2 lag screws at each joint.
Attach the 6″ 2×6 legs to the bottom of the table legs using 4 2x 1/2” wood screws on each leg. Now do the same for the other side.
Measure the inside dimension of the tabletop from one spacer to the other. Cut the last 4×4 to this size, then attach the two table legs to the 62″ 4×4 stretcher and two lag screws through each leg and into the stretcher.
Add the tabletop and secure the legs to the spacers with 2 1/2” wood screws through each leg top into the spacer.
Those are the 11 DIY farmhouse-style tables that you can easily follow and build. The materials and tools can be found and purchased relatively easily and cheaply at hardware stores and lumber stores.
Now go ahead and decorate your house with your very own tables. Thanks for reading.